Whilst looking at a local restaurant in Scotland – I spotted the Volnay 1er cru Fremiets 09 from Domain D’Angerville and I simply could not resist doing a wine tasting.
The Wine Tasting Notes: 2009 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, Fremiets, Volnay 1er Cru.
On opening the bottle of Volnay, I noticed – as expected – a shy and tight wine with only stone fruit and the oak flavours dominating.
The colour of the wine was a classic ruby red tone with bright ruby reflects and dark ruby core. As I turn it in the glass I also added to my wine tasting notes that it had a medium viscosity sticking to the wall of the glass.
2009 is for red burgundy the last generous and beautifully balanced as well as ripe vintage. The 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 vintages have a common point of being very small crops. The expectation is that the wine is made from really good juice but not much of it. It is a little too early to comment on the final quality, especially of the latter vintages, so back to our 2009 vintage.
Younger wines and aeration
I tend to carry my wine aerator accessory, WineWeaver, with me in case I have an impromptu wine tasting – as too many times in the past I have had disappointed wine tastings with very young wine. In essence, without the extra aeration I have to work my glass too much to get something (tasting notes) out of the liquid!
So, I asked the sommelier to decant this Pinot Noir (grape) expression through my WineWeaver, Et voila! Immediately, the fruit blossomed on the nose with more spring flowers, fresh berries and dark cherries. However, despite the aeration the oak treatment was still very obvious and slightly dominating. Nevertheless, my wine tasting notes will record that it is a very elegant and well integrated wine which demonstrates the need to have some patience for this type of wine is actually crucial.
Having said that some patience is needed, I also knew that the decanting this wine would bring more to the palate. The aeration did the job by adding texture, putting glycerol onto the frame and bringing soul to the mid palate giving rise to further tastes of ripe berries, crushed flowers, cooked cherries, savoury notes, wet earth as well as some spices from oak inevitably. Each of these has been noted down to make the tasting notes of use in the future. Add to it the fact that the wine was dense and weighty with composure already and has the added touch of vibrancy and my notes end with a note to have another one of those in 5 years time! In my professional opinion, I will not be disappointed.
Food and Wine Sommelier Tip
The finish is medium and definitely on the toasty notes and caramel so it will work on simple grilled lamb or on our lamb recipe.
I recommend that you buy some of this wine and try to hold off drinking it for at least another year or so before approaching it. Then try it with your WineWeaver wine aerator accessory so it will deliver its full charm immediately.
Chris, November 2014
How could I resist looking at this wine? Well, I didn’t and I took at look at one of my favourite sites, Berry Bros & Rudd and more specifically Allen Meadows’ comment on the slightly older 2005 which he describes as
“vibrant mineral-driven and large-scaled flavors that are shaped by powerful if buried tannins. While magnificently long, this stunning Ducster is completely shut down at present and it would be a vinous crime to open one at this very early point in its development as the ’05 is built for the very long haul, indeed 20 years may be too soon.”
I think that this comment may give you a true idea of the potential of the 2009 and why Chris is planning to do another tasting in five years time.
Perhaps there will be a minor issue of actually locating some 2009, so why not try to secure a 2003 or 2010-12 whilst you can!