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Depth in a vintage Puligny Montrachet Les Enseigneres 2009 with the WineWeaver

I am just returning from Burgundy having indulged in a complete palette of tasting, mainly on the 2010 vintage. Unusually for me, I am not going to give it a further introduction or promotion, or even a discussion of the wine after aeration, as there is so little of it (minus 30% production average on all AOC) it gives rise to a scary price!

However, I have tasted some other vintages with my trusty WineWeaver and which I feel are more suitable. For instance, over lunch the other day we had a delightful Puligny Montrachet Les Enseigneres 2009, from the winemaker Noel Ramonet (son of the great winemaker Andre Ramonet). I should point out that this is a village site ( NOT 1er cru) where a few very good winemakers also have plots including Coche-Dury!

The 2009 was a fabulous vintage, especially for the red wine, as generally the white wines tend to lack bite and acid lift. However, the ‘Puligny’ did manage a surprise for us with the terroir showing better core minerals in those exceptional conditions that go to build a 2009.

We opened this bottle with our minds already focused on the palate and the expectation of a 2009. The wine delivered a fleshy, ripe and mineral nose, fresh and with good complexity immediately. The palate developed around this acid structure with ripe fruit; spices; stone fruit and some nuts- layered! So, no further questions asked, I whipped out my wine aerator and put the WineWeaver to work. I decanted the rest of that bottle and what a treat was to follow the wine aeration process – a lift in precision and absolute drinkability!

We were all amazed by the inner core of the wine and the success of the winemaking that has retained the primary fruit without masking it with too much work (long elevage; oak; etc.) combined it with the WineWeaver and the aeration it gives and an additional depth was exposed in no time. In effect revealing the terroir of Puligny Montrachet- there is no doubt those monks knew what they were doing by allocating grand cru labels on some of this village top sites!

Christopher Delalonde, Master Sommelier, 2012


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